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F.A.Q.   Goat - Hare

What do you feed angora goats?

Goats love to browse so watch your favorite roses.  They are great for clearing and improving pasture, but with the browse can also come organic debris in the fiber.  Our goats are out on pasture/browse in all but the worst weather.  Otherwise they get grass and alfalfa hay.  Try to attain the best quality hay, they will waste less.  We generally feed alfalfa to the does and grass hay to the bucks.  Remember pregnant and nursing does will need larger amounts of feed.  Does will need extra feed before and after breeding, so the fetus can develop hair follicles.  Improved nutrition brings more and better big growth kids and heavier fleeces.  Poor nutrition is the leading cause of abortion and poor mothering.  A good feeding program will reward you with health angoras willing to give you luscious, silky, soft mohair.

 What vaccinations do angora goats need?

We vaccinate with CD-T and BoSe as a rule.  The does are vaccinated about 2 weeks before kidding.  After their first shots they receive a booster every year.  Kids get their shots between 4-16 weeks of age.  Buck receive same schedule as does.  Always check with your Vet for dosages and what to use in your area.

What health issues do angora goats have?

I have found our angora goats to be quite hardy.  I trim feet as needed usually every 2-3 months.  A good stanchion can come in handy at this time; our goats will readily jump up for a treat.  You may need to trim more often if you live in a wetter climate.   Biting and sucking lice are an issue for the angora.  We find a pour-on to be the best cure.  But it’s an ongoing battle.  If they seem to be doing a lot of itching with there horns or just rubbing, better check for lice.  They are fairly easy to see, when you part the hair and see the skin you can usually see them crawling around.  Don't assume that only the ones who are scratching have lice.  Routinely we do a pour-on, after shearing and again in 10-14 days, and otherwise as needed.   Worming should be done regularly also, we use Safeguard, Ivomec.  It’s easy to remember when you time things to go together, like say: shearing, feet, worming or whatever helps you remember.  I keep a separate barn calendar for the goats and everything goes on that calendar, if you jot it down when you do it, it saves a lot of headache.

 

When do you shear?

Angora goats should be shorn twice a year usually spring and fall.  It’s much easier to shear before kidding and again before breeding, gets all that wonderful fiber out of the way.  It’s important to have shelter from the wet and cold after shearing, they are most susceptible to illness at that time and should be carefully watched.   Sometimes if it’s really chilly and cold we coat them for a few weeks, it helps to keep in body heat.

Why Mohair? 

Mohair fiber grows about 1 inch a month typical length 4-6 inches.   Kid fiber being the softest and is used most often for skin contact clothing.  The coarser fibers can be used for rugs or outer ware.  Mohair fibers are hollow and don't conduct heat, they provide excellent insulation even when wet. 

Ladies in waitingLadies in waiting

What do you look for when choosing Angora goats?

Since mohair fiber is what its about, that is our primary focus.  You will want animals who can hold up over time to produce that fiber; vigorous, strong, healthy animals is what you look for.  Good legs and feet, a good bite for chewing.   If you have the opportunity to observe that animal, walking, eating, interacting with the others, see how it behaves.  Is the coat shiny and healthy looking?  Is it lame?  Ask a lot of questions.  If the seller is hesitant maybe you should look elsewhere.  Sometimes there is a reason behind a problem.  Looking objectively at an animal is hard sometimes especially if you really want "that color" or fiber character.  Take your time, do your homework, seek advice.  Most people are more than willing to help.  CAGBA has a breed standard that gives a good description on what to look for. 

 

Run!!

Run for your lives!!

When should they be bred?

Usually the doe lings should be about 60+pounds, but we try and wait till the fall after they turn a year old (some times the bucks have other ideas).  If at all possible waiting till they are at least a year old.    It seems like along time but if you consider what they are producing for you & growing at the same time.  Remember it takes a lot to do both.  Giving them that extra time is really worth it.   The bucks are fully capable of breeding his first year, but whether you choose to do that is a personal preference.  I think that a few does passed his way is acceptable and also gives you a jump on seeing his offspring.

Last but not least:

These are just my opinions and have worked well for me.  There is always so much more that can be said.  Daily observation can squash problems before they get ahead of you.  All our animals have distinct personalities, and it’s pretty easy to see if an individual has a problem.   Thank you for visiting our website.

The End.The End.

 

 

What do you feed your angora bunnies?

   I feed Integra Lifelong rabbit pellets.  The core ingredients come from King feed in Sacramento CA, and is testing out to be one of the best angora rabbit feeds.  I also supplement with sunflower seed and hard red wheat berries that I coat with powdered garlic.  They get about a TBL of this before I feed pellets so they don't scratch out the pellets for the goodies.  My bunnies also get good quality grass hay in their racks all the time.  Along with this regular program I love to give extras; dried up multi grain or wheat (not white) bread heel pieces, banana chunks skin and all, apple pieces (no seeds),  broccoli, or carrot chunks or tops.  Lettuce is a misnomer and is not good for bunnies!

 What health issues do Angora Bunnies have?

   Mites are an issue for angora bunnies.  I worm with Ivomec when I sheer every 90 days. 

What is adequate cage space for my German Angora Bunny?

   I have made my own cages for my bunnies.  They measure 30" x 36" x 24".  I have made cages this big so the bunnies have room to hop around, so the door can be big enough (18" x 18")for me to easily get in the cage, and so the bunnies could raise up and look around if they so choose.  IAGARB has a nice standard of care you should take a look at.

How to build your own 2 rabbit cages:

  This is what I have done.  I have made several cages and have found that using the drummel tool to cut the wire really is the easiest way to get a lot done without killing your hands using wire cutters.  Remember to use your safety glasses  - it might save you a trip into town - ha ha!  So this is what I do:  I go get 16' of 5' - 1" x 2" wire and 6' of rabbit wire (1" x 1/2").  Then from my 5' wire I cut two 30" sections that I bend at a 90* angle the long way with a board and hammer at 24".  So you have an L 36" for the tall side and 24" for the bottom.  When I flip it up I have my top and one side.  With another 5' tall  102" section I cut two 24" sections length wise, so I have two 24" x 102" pieces.  I bend these at 90* angles at 36" x 30" (in the middle) x 36" making a U.  Then I connect these, to make a box, with wire clips.  For the bottom I cut my rabbit wire (1" x 1/2") - 30" x 36" and clip on the bottom.  When all is together I cut out a good size 18" x 18" door and hinge a 20" x 20" door on with the clips.

When and how do you sheer angora bunnies?

  I sheer every 90 days as the research has shown this is the optimum time for health and quality of fiber.  IAGARB has some information in their articles about care.  The fiber is prime (2 1/2" or longer) at this time, and it keeps down on health issues to sheer at this time. 

  I have been using a nice pair of scissors.  I like a scissors that are sharp with not too long of a blade.  If the blade and handle are too long they make it hard to maneuver in tight places.  My scissors in total are 5" long and easy to get where I need to be.  They have one sharp point  and a blunt point.  The dull end so I don't stab and the sharp end to get through mattes if need be.

  I recently got The Red Clippers by Aesculap.  They work well but as with the scissors there is a learning curve to them. 

  When I sheer my bunnies I lay them on my lap and start at the rump and work a row up to the ears.  Then corncobing around  I like to get the prime off first then deal with the rest last.  ( There is certainly no definitive way to sheer, and I'm sure you will find your own style.  A way that works best for you and your bunny.)  Many people use a table to set the bunny on.  I feel with their whole body next to mine I can feel it they are getting tense or need a little break.

Why angora?

  I love it.  It is so soft and when you work with it you know you are handling or wearing a fabulous real fiber.  It is seven times warmer then wool, and since I am always cold it is the perfect fit.  I have found it easy and a joy to spin.  The whole aspect of easily taking fiber from bunny to spinning wheel (with no processing) then on to finished product satisfies this "do it yourselfer" inside of me.

  I have recently started a little blending with other fiber and I have to say everything feels better with angora.

What do you look for in choosing a German Angora Bunny?

  I look good fiber; texture, evenness of length, character, and density.  I also think that it is easier to sheer a bunny with a good tube like body.  Shoulders wide as or close to wide as the hips.  Check their mouth for good bite.  A good healthy rabbit.  I like how my mom said " Ask a lot of questions.  If the seller is hesitant maybe you should look elsewhere.  Sometimes there is a reason behind a problem.  Looking objectively at an animal is hard sometimes especially if you really want "that color" or fiber character.  Take your time, do your homework, seek advice.  Most people are more than willing to help."  And if they aren't helpful they probably won't be helpful if you are seeking advise later after you have had your bunny for a while. IAGARB has a good breed standard on their website.  

When should they be bred?

I think it is advantageous for the does to be 9 months,  they are more mature and seem to be better mothers less likely to loose kits.  The bucks are ready to go at about 4 months so remember after the litters are weaned at about 8 weeks to separate the boys form the girls.

Last but not least:

These are just my opinions and have worked well for me.  There is always so much more that can be said.  Daily observation can squash problems before they get ahead of you.  All our animals have distinct personalities, and it’s pretty easy to see if an individual is not feeling itself.